Saturday, October 30, 2010

Salalah Again!





What do you get when you have 17 teachers, two kids, and one dog? An adventure to remember for a lifetime!
Last month 20 of us (including the dog) drove to the Dhofar region to catch the end of Khareef. I cried when I saw the green hills north of Salalah. I forgetwhat rain looks like!
Enough exaggerating...it really is a sight. In Tanuf north of Salalah you remember that Oman is mostly desert and then you drive 5 km and you are transported to another land. It is like walking through the wardrobe to Narnia. You can see the rain line.
After driving through green hills we decended to Salalah: A metropolis (for Oman), a beach town, a tourist attraction and a historical port town. Salalah attracts Omanis and tourists alike each June to September who want to catch site of some precipitation. Each year the monsoon, Khareef in Arabic, blows in from India and cools off the southern coast of Oman.
There is more to see than the green hills and the rain. East of Salalah, Khor Rowri, sits peacefully. Once the site of Queen Sheba's port, Khor Rorwi invites the traveler back in time to wander through its alleys and ruins. In the states this site would be fenced off, but here you can touch the stone as you look out to the Indian Ocean and imagine the bustling township it once was.
North of Khor Rowi one can climb the green hills again, but this time to Wadi Dam. Our plan here, was to camp and explore the wadi and maybe even find fresh water. The only problem was the bugs. All of us were attacked by gnats from the moment we set up camp to when we packed up the cars the next morning. It rained all night and I was in heaven, hearing the drizzle and patta pat on my tent. We ultimately left because of the rain. Also, we found out there is a parasite that lives in the water at wadi dam. Next adventure, Mirbat...
There is a long stretch of coves and beaches east of Mirbat. It is a great place to camp except during Khareef. The water is treacherous (for Oman) and the beaches are windy. The village of Mirbat is beautiful. You drive through this little village and see abandoned houses just on the coast.
Luckily, while a few of us were checking out the fishing village, our compadres found a better camping site. Not just better, THE BEST.
The last few days we spent packing in as many sites as possible, the blowholes, the souk, Job's Tomb, even a banana stand. That day was also the day we found fresh water. It happened to be the same spring I swam in two years ago when I first went down to Salalah. Wadi Ain winds through a desolate canyon. The ground is covered with round stones which makes hiking down to the water a challenge. Once beyond the round, loose rocks, the face of the cliff can be scaled, but it is a team effort. We had to spot each other and give boosts. All the teamwork paid off. The water was chilly and refreshing. There are plenty of rocks to jump off of, if you can get to them. Yet another team effort, getting out of the water.
On shore none of realized that there weren't banks to climb to get out of the water. The first of us in had to wait for the experienced climbers to get out before we could! Fresh Water = Trip highlight.
And now for one of my favorite subjects while traveling...FOOD. I will brag a little now. BBQ lamb is amazing, especially when I make it. The hot coals nearly char the surface of the meat while the inside stays rare. Wow! I found some lamb Masala and it was a perfect dry rub.
The next night we headed into town for Lebanese food. Too bad i can't remember the name of the restaurant. I do remember how to get there. So if you are in town, just ask me ;-)
The last day after going to the souk we found Bin Atiq, a chain of Omani restaurants serving traditional Omani food. This is one of the few truly Omani restaurants. There aren't tables and the waiter won't give you silverware, unless you are a tourist. Each group sits in a separate dinning room. Some rooms have TV. Traditionally Bin Atiq caters to traveling Omanis who want a taste of home while away from home.

Next Post...Where will I travel next????

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